I’m going to veer slightly off course today, given it’s a Friday and all. I’ve wanted to document this memory for ages, and now is as good a time as any. Or perhaps, I’m just hungry. I love food, I love to cook. I’ve shown you my stove, it actually gets a fair amount of use. But there is nothing more wonderful than eating food someone else has prepared, particularly when it is the best meal of your life. And that is where this story begins.
Last fall, a friend and I travelled to New York City to celebrate one of those significant birthdays (hers). The trip had been arranged fairly last minute, and we would be connecting with a couple other people on day two of the itinerary. I knew that this momentous occasioned warranted at least one outstanding meal, and my first thought was to schedule it for the evening of our arrival (though as to not burden people I did not yet know with an ambitious culinary experience). Initially I was determined to dine at Le Bernadin, as I have a minor obsession with Eric Ripert. I scoured Open Table for reservations and the best I could achieve was 10:20 pm for that date. After not an insignificant amount of lamenting I nixed that plan, and researched the New York Times restaurant reviews for further inspiration. I was spoiled for choice, and my normally decisive self stalled. A couple weeks out, I was running out of time.
In a stroke of brilliance, I somehow remembered a restaurant that necessitated a last minute reservation. Or more specifically, a reservation exactly six days prior to your preferred evening. I will elaborate, and trust me, it gets better. I had been reading about David Chang he of Momofuku fame for the last couple of years, seen him as a guest judge on Top Chef. A somewhat unlikely success story, the darling of the New York food scene, entirely intense, utterly creative. I was intrigued, I had even prepared his recipe for brussel sprouts with mint and fish sauce, I had come across in Food and Wine Magazine. Anthony Bourdain dedicated a chapter in his latest book, Medium Raw, to the legend surrounding Chang, and it is that, that compelled me to investigate further.
Momofuku Ko is Chang’s fourth restaurant In New York’s East Village, the most ambitious and high end endeavour to date. It is regarded as the most difficult reservation in New York to procure, given the meager twelve seats, with only two seatings each evening. Apparently, there is no preferential treatment given, reservations open six days prior at 10:00 am, and it must be booked exclusively online. Rumour has it that Chang’s parents could not eat in the restaurant for the first year of its existence as the same rules apply to everyone. I gleaned from the internets that securing a reservation was going to require a significant amount of manual dexterity and a fast internet connection. I read tales of people attempting for weeks to acquire the elusive confirmation.
I knew it was risky, but that morning six days prior I positioned myself at my computer, ready to pounce at exactly 8:00 am (given the two hour time difference). I had a couple of clocks synchronized and to my best estimation I arrived at the time selection screen at 8:00 am + 1 second. All reservations save for two had been booked. I nearly broke my mouse as I clicked on the 7:30 pm for two option, and it was mine. In my exuberance I was almost able to disregard the slightly sick feeling given the cancellation policy of 24 hour notice or a charge of $125 per person. If our plane was significantly delayed, we could have an issue.
We departed Saskatoon at some ungodly hour in the morning, barely awake, I looking marginally presentable, heading for our connection in Toronto. If you have ever cleared customs in Toronto airport you can imagine the scene that unfolded before us. We had approximately fifty minutes to make it through that monumental queue. The pace was surprisingly brisk, and I surmised that we would achieve clearance and arrival at our gate with a couple of minutes to spare. Suddenly an announcement overhead indicated that the airport would be observing a moment of silence for Remembrance Day. It was amazing to watch how everything ground to a halt, and to witness complete silence in a veritable sea of people. Unfortunately for us, that moment was approximately eight minutes long, and despite an impressive sprint we arrived at the gate just as our plane was taxi-ing away. Visions of my much awaited meal evaporated, replaced instead with the not insignificant cancellation fee.
Long story short, we were rebooked on the next flight and arrived in NYC with plenty of time to spare. Unfortunately, our luggage did not. We were going to dinner in the outfits that we had donned at 4:30 am, and in my case sans makeup. At that moment I breathed a sigh of relief that we were not going to the very fancy Le Bernadin. Momofuku Ko is notably casual. We set out via the subway to the East Village, and figured that we would do some shopping prior to our reservation.
We were fairly exhausted after such an early morning that we decided to relax and grab a drink prior to dinner. We randomly chose from a multitude of establishments and found ourselves in Veselka. The irony of the situation donned on us immediately, two girls from Saskatchewan are drawn directly into a Ukrainian restaurant (though neither of us is of Ukrainian descent, every second person who lives here just might be), we might have been in Babba’s Perogies. Turns out Veselka is itself quite famous, and I spotted it in a movie a couple months ago when we watched Nick and Norah’s Infinite Playlist.
Though I had the exact address, we spent ages actually locating Momofuku Ko. All I knew was that the door to the restaurant sported only the image of a small peach. Hidden in plain view, we somehow walked past it several times. Upon arrival, we marveled at the small size of the restaurant and perched ourselves on our designated stools at the end of the bar like communal dining space. Seated next to us, was a lovely couple from Halifax in town to see Dave Matthews Band and more importantly, to eat at Ko. It is an experience.
Dinner is comprised of a ten course tasting menu, subject to change based on seasonality, ingredient availability, and the evolving nature of David Chang and Peter Serpico’s (head chef at Ko) vision. There is no printed menu, and no photography allowed. There is no waitstaff with the exception of the sommelier, you are served by a chef. Through memory and a little bit of internet browsing I believe that the following is a close approximation of what we ate.
Chicharron with togarashi salt
British Columbia and Kumamoto oysters in a sweet potato vinegar
Brioche with bone marrow, lemon confit, and sorrel in a gruyere and comte broth
Smoked, soft boiled egg, paddlefish caviar, fingerling potato chips, onion confit and herbs of chevril
Hard torn pasta, with chicken and snail sausage
Shaved fois gras with lychee, riesling gelee and pine nut brittle
Sashimi of fluke with pickled peppers
48 hour braised and then deep fried lamb rib (cannot remember the accompaniments)
Apple cake with burnt apple sauce, oatmel ice cream, apple cubes, apple gelee, and golden raisin puree
Dome of buttermilk with a mint centre sprinkled with freeze dried corn
I know that there were was an additional sashimi course, and a couple of amuse bouche I missed documenting. Given that I have been awake since 4:30 am I knew i would be completely liquored if I attempted the wine/alcohol pairing. The sommelier devised for me a partial pairing which involved wine, beer and sake. The meal was was exceptional, beyond creative, so refined, yet completely unpretentious. Momofuku Ko is about the food, an understated celebration of what is possible. I’m not a food reviewer, so I will not try as I could not do the meal justice. But it was unforgettable.
The Door We Could Not Find
Momofuku Ko Interior
We sat at these last two seats